Where are the Minority Chefs?

I have worked as a chef in Chicago for over 20 years and I have always worked with Hispanic, Black and Caucasian chefs, more Hispanic than Caucasian, and always mostly men. There is no shortage of Hispanics working in kitchens all over the city, cooking a wide range of food stuffs including Sushi.

Food television is not as full with minority chefs as the kitchens happen to be, there is a sprinkling of Black chefs, and not much more in way for Hispanic. Why is this?  We are doing the heavy lifting and earning the skills to make things pop, fry, and sizzle, so I know having the skill isn't the problem. Yet in still, the Italian chef, the White Southern chef, the French chef, are all the standard image of what a chef is, and most of the time they are male as well.

While we may not be able to lift as much weight as the fellow, we do hold up our share of the work in a production kitchen and I would like to see more representation of our efforts. There is no shortage of food outlets that are black run and often black owned in a city like Chicago. I have served dignitaries that were surprised at the amount of minority representation at the venue, and expressed as much.

While the average black population in this country is about 13% of the overall population, we do make up a much higher number of working chefs in this city and our Hispanic compadres may actually make up a bigger percentage of the kitchen staff. It would be nice to see more of us in the media as chefs. Whenever there is a cooking show, television series, or movie about chefs, there is a whitewashing of the kitchen, unless they are in the kitchen of an Asian restaurant, then the whole staff is Asian and does not speak English.

Am I asking too much? I don't think so. And while waiting for the media to catch up to our reality, I won't be holding my breath. And I am not the only one asking the question.... http://www.pbs.org/black-culture/explore/black-chefs/

In this article, they mention not only that there is a rise in minority enrollment into culinary schools but that there is a lack of managing or executive minority chefs. So in outlets where a multitude of different people work together, few of them are in lead positions.

Are we Jim Crow kitchens? Are we continuing prejudices in our industry? Or am I expecting to much? Isn't it accurate to expect to see a shift in the kitchen management and media representation reflect the populous? We are graduating and training up fantastic chefs of all races and genders so how long, or when, will we see a superstar minority female chef? I am not saying that their isn't any to use as inspiration, Carla Hall comes to mind, but I ask who else?

Michelin Star Rating System

Most people in the food business has at least heard of the Michelin star rating system, however, most probably don't know its purpose or history. From time to time, I will hear culinary students wish to make the attainment of owning a Michelin star rated restaurant one of their career goals, but often they don't fully understand what it is that they are setting their sites upon. To wit, I always ask them what it means and how they plan on achieving this goal.

I personally never set my sites on this benchmark. My career goals are smaller in scope but never too small to be significant. I have always thought of myself as a work in progress, I strive to achieve progress everyday, to be better tomorrow than today, while hoping to become a owner of a nice bakery. I love food exploration and education. I love to occasionally expand my talent and knowledge while keeping up to date on the industry and in touch with colleagues who have helped me along the way. I had to teach myself how to work with fondant as it was not a medium that was available while I was studying my craft. I took to television and online tutorials to figure out how the medium work and some tricks and tips.

Chicago is a very fabulous city to work in food as we mid-Westerners have always taken pride in our food scene. This city is among the most segregated cities in the world as most folks cluster up in neighborhoods by ethnicity, but at the same time we have such a wide list of diverse groups that you can find all sorts of food offerings to satisfy your cravings. Mexican, Puerto Rican, Chilean, Brazilian, Thai, Vietnamese, Cantonese, Chinese, Polish, Irish, Italian, Egyptian, Palestinian, Indian, Middle Eastern, Japanese, Russian, Ethiopian, and I am sure I have not named them all. Chicago has its issues but we here often commune with each other plate by plate.

If you think you have heard the Michelin name before but it didn't have anything to do with food, you are right. Michelin stars rating system began with the Michelin tire company. The owners of the tire company wanted a way to encourage long road trips because the more worn out tires, the more sales the tire company could earn, makes sense. So they thought about what people would need in order to drive longer and longer distances. They concluded that a traveler would need to know two very important pieces of information, where they could sleep comfortably and where they could eat. So around 1900, they began issuing star ratings for restaurants to highlight excellent locations to visit.

In American history there have been 173 stars awarded, a small number over the last 116 years, and in that list of American stars, Chicago has only been awarded 22. Earning a Michelin Star can dramatically change the way the world looks upon your restaurant and its chefs. These ratings can literally push your efforts into the stratosphere and adds your name to the list of the most accomplished in your craft.

Is having this as a goal as a student a good idea? I will never ever discourage anyone from striving to be their absolute best, however, I do tell students to get a plan in place to make this dream a reality. 'How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.' Do your research, find out how the chefs before you have earned their stars, figure out where you should study to give you the best odds of earning one, find a great place to intern in order to get some hands on experience with a great chef, look into who invests in restaurants and may want to help you open your own doors after a long period of study, figure out new ways to reach the gourmet audience, understand your skills well, be honest with yourself about where you are is light of where the heavy hitters are, know your audience, seek answers about what your limitations are. Every chef must, not only figure out what others can teach them, also understand what tasks they do best and what work they should leave for other chefs to do as no one chef can do everything perfectly.

Just getting in to a culinary program and graduating can be hard to do for some students. I have seen some who were cocky going into a culinary training program and washed out before completion. I have also seen chefs graduate from a study course with enormous egos and confidence in their skills but got a wake up call at their first real job in the industry as others chefs ended up deflating that ego because they didn't know what they didn't know.

In the last few years, we have witnessed a enormous boon in the number of colleges that a chef can study. The popularization of food related television has made our jobs more attractive to the common watcher. And while thousands of kids, instead of a few hundred in years before, actively seek a place to start their food careers, not all programs of study are equal. Some interns that I have had the pleasure to work with don't all finish their education with the same amount of skill, ability, knowledge, and experience as all the others.  Hell, some do not possess the right personality traits to survive in a professional kitchen.

No matter if you want to swing your bat in the big leagues or if you want to be a small business owner, DO YOUR RESEARCH. These careers do not materialize over night nor are the dropped in your lap because you have a culinary education. The restaurant business is VERY competitive and the amount of time you need to put in at work to become the best chef you can be is HUGE. This industry seldom allows you to have a good work/life balance, especially in the beginning, and a chef never stops learning. Once a chef becomes proficient with producing the master sauces, they still don't have mastery of the yeast bread, for example. Customer demands change all the time and the food outlet that is the hottest ticket in town today can have a empty reservation book tomorrow because the food or diet fad has changed course.

Work hard, study hard, never stop learning, and dream big. BUT, do your research, write a plan, rewrite it often, make it plain, and plan, plan, plan. Those who fail to plan, plan to fail. It is a fool that doesn't do their homework before jumping into the pool. Is it shallow or deep? Is it clean water or contaminated? Are there rocks at the bottom? Be deliberate and sure of what you are shaping before the sculpture collapses.

Here are some links that may help you investigate the Michelin star ratings: http://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-the-michelin-guide-2014-10

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Michelin_starred_restaurants#United_States

TV Food

There isn't a television series or movie that does not have a food scene.  Why? Because so much of our lives revolves around food.

The romantic dinner date, a secret meeting in a diner, business lunch, the breakfast in bed, a wedding banquet, or the temper tantrum that flings food on the floor all are how we communicate with food in media. My biggest pet peeve is the old trope of the action movie chase through the restaurant kitchen with equipment being used as hurdles to slow down the bad guys. Who's gonna clean this up???? But this is my second most hated media food clique, the ruined the wedding cake stunt! I am sure that these images have added to my anxiety about delivering my wedding cakes to sites. Before I finish the set-up of your wedding cake, I am a nervous wreck, these projects are treated like my newborn child coming home from the hospital. After I take the pictures of your beauty in place on the table in your decorated room, I am done and exhausted. It's your newborn to protect after that, if your unsupervised child walks face first into the cake, I am not responsible and while I will be saddened by the news of its destruction, I have to be emotionally distant, otherwise I would never allow anyone to cut and serve them.

There are quite a few movies that focus on the life of the chef and therefore food becomes the "invisible" character in the cast, the MacGuffin that propels the story forward. Using the backdrop of a commercial kitchen often springs forth in dramas about the lead characters in the "will they, won't they" scenarios. Cinematic offerings such as Soul Food, 100 Foot Journey, Ratatouille, Eat Pray Love, Tortilla Soup, and many more all have a food center at the story, yet none of them have accurately depicted the life of a chef. Burnt is an attempt at the life of a chef and it is the second time that Bradley Cooper has played a chef in a movie. I have yet to see this depiction and looking forward to talking about this later.

Twenty four hour food television stations have brought about the new term "food porn". YouTube channels are filled with glutenous offerings that are over the top, beastly, recipes of

Viewers are no more likely to cook the foods they have been presented with on the broadcast and this type of television is no longer about food education. It is much more likely that the point of the shows are entertainment rather than education. Growing up, lots of us watched public television, this included the Great Chefs like Julia Child, Jacques Pipan, Justin Wilson, were the trailblazers that taught cuisine and technique to the masses of housewives and young children who were home during the day.

While media exposure of the profession can elevate and educate the public about this life we lead, these days it isn't much to separate its offerings from soap opera themes and game show audiences. Most of the offerings are just another style of reality competion show. Competition shows are abundant in food television. The Supermarket Sweep has birthed everything from  Chopped, Master Chef, and Great British Baking Show. Timed challenges of all sorts, build a bridge made of cereal treats and licorice, mystery boxes of foods to challenge the chefs, artistic wedding cake constructions using techniques such as fondant, molding chocolate, chocolate figurines, pulled sugar art, and the like.

The individual's culinary talent often takes a backseat to the selection of the right personality. Paula Deen, for example, first got her show due to her friendship with a producer of reality television programming. While he was correct that watching her was entertaining, her culinary accumin was spurrius at best. Most viewer have no idea how these sausages are made, no idea what has to go on behind the scenes in order to make a successful show of things. I was once called to test a recipe for a cooking show. Multiple outlets will be used to test a recipe for accuracy and quality. On set, a team of chefs do all the preparation and design so that the stat can come in a make magic on camera.

What a chef does is not what a celebrity chef does. When you become a brand, a bankable product, you begin down a path that takes you away from the production kitchen.  You can go from broadcast, to an interview, to a book signing, to a convention, all of which are designed to capitalize upon your cache. Watching television can broaden your understanding of how things work or what type or work a chef does. However, just like watching a medical show doesn't teach you how to be a doctor, watching a cooking show doesn't make you a chef.